Friday, December 14, 2007
By EVELYN SHIH
STAFF WRITER
Photo left: With one of the largest Buddha statues on the East Coast, the brightly colored Mahayana Temple -- built in a former theater -- is hard to miss. (VEGAR ABLESNES / SPECIAL TO THE RECORD)So you're in Manhattan with your family for a little holiday fun. The tree at Rockefeller Center? Been there, done that. Window shopping on Fifth Avenue? Check. Stroll around Soho? Yawn.
Instead of going to places you always go, maybe it's time to get a taste of Chinatown, says author Ann Volkwein. And she's not just talking about the Chinatown of designer-bag knockoffs and pagoda-themed Starbucks. In her new book, "Chinatown New York: Portraits, Recipes, and Memories," Volkwein gets into the history, cuisine and quirky little activities that are unique to the neighborhood.
Although you can read the book in the comfort of your home, you also can use it as a guide on your next trip there, whether you are looking for food, sights or an unusual experience. Volkwein recently provided a walking tour of several places mentioned in her book, a sample route through the heart of Chinatown.
We began the tour a few blocks from the Canal Street subway stop at Po Wing Hong (49-55 Elizabeth St.), a general store known for its dried goods.
For your visit
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Transportation
• Driving: not recommended. Chinatown is notorious
for its scarcity of parking spaces. Some metered spots are available on Canal
Street during evening hours.
• Subway: Take the 6, the JMZ or the NRQW
to Canal. Also try the BD to Grand Street or the F to East Broadway.
• MTA Bus: M1, M6, M9, M15, M22, M103, B39 and B51.
Planning
• Experience Chinatown Walking Tour: by the Museum of Chinese in America. Tours
begin at MOCA at 70 Mulberry St., 2nd floor. $12, $10 students and seniors. Next
tour: Saturday at 1 p.m. Call 212-619-4785 for reservations.
For more information
• Chinatown kiosk: at Canal and Baxter streets; open 10 a.m.
to 6 p.m. weekdays and until 7 p.m. weekends. There are free maps, event
information and coupon books for Chinatown shops and restaurants. Or go online
at explorechinatown.com.
"I wanted to demystify stores like this for people," said Volkwein, pointing out dried scallops, abalone and ginseng displayed neatly in glass jars. The various herbs and teas for sale have become increasingly popular with American customers since owners Nancy and Patrick Ng opened shop in the late '70s, she added.
Farther down the street is one of the two entrances to the Deluxe Food Market (79 Elizabeth St. and 122 Mott St.), the window brightened with neon Chinese characters. Prepared food ranging from Cantonese barbecue to bakery sweets is clustered near both doors for a quick bite. Walking into the belly of the beast, you also can find special cuts of meat, crowded live fish tanks and Asian vegetables to use in recipes found in the book.
Exiting the other end of the store on Mott, make a left. Soon you'll find Fay Da Bakery (83 Mott St.) and Egg Custard King Cafe (76 Mott St.), home to tasty treats to snack on as you stroll. The pastries will go swimmingly with Chinese tea, available at Ten Ren Tea (75 Mott St.).
Volkwein includes a miniguide to eight kinds of loose-leaf teas in the book, which owner Ellen Lii calls "a great help" because she now can show it to confused customers. If you call ahead (212-349-2286), you can take part in a tea ceremony. Compared with the Japanese ceremony, the Chinese version is more like a wine tasting with different flavors and grades of tea, said Volkwein.
Continuing south along Mott, you will pass the Chinese Consolidated Benevolent Association (62 Mott St.), an unassuming building for a community group that has helped immigrants since 1883. Worth a quick peek nearby is the Eastern States Temple (64 Mott St.) founded by the Ying family -- who also run the China Pavilion at Disney World.
Keep walking south on Mott. When you reach Bayard Street, turn left. You'll find the almost bar-like, old-school teahouse, Mei Lai Wah (64 Bayard St.), with satisfyingly large Special Big Buns. You'll also see the Chinatown Ice Cream Factory (65 Bayard St.), with "regular" flavors like wasabi and litchi and "exotic" fare like vanilla.
Back on Mott, you'll see the Church of the Configuration (29 Mott St.), the largest Chinese Catholic congregation in the United States, according to the Rev. Ray Nobiletti. Over the years, the church has served Irish, Italian and Chinese parishioners, and Mass is currently said in three languages.
On the way to Pell Street on Mott, stop by Sinotique (19A Mott St.), an antique and decor boutique owned by Jan Lee. A second-generation Chinatown native, Lee grew up on Mott Street, and Volkwein details his family's story of immigration in the book.
Pell Street is where filmmakers go to simulate old Chinatown, Volkwein explained, pointing out a painted-over bulletin board that originally was used to post news from China. If you walk along a small, twisty street off Pell called Doyers, you will be standing above tunnels purportedly used by Irish gangs as secret passageways.
Doyers ends at Bowery Street near Chatham Square. If you take a left, you'll soon come to Lin Sister Herb Shop (4 Bowery St.). There, you can get a Chinese medicine consultation, schedule an acupuncture session or even get therapeutic massage. Farther north on Bowery, stop at Wong Tai Sin Temple (20 Bowery St.) and say a quick prayer to the deity for health.
Finish the tour back at the intersection with Canal Street, where the Mahayana Temple (133 Canal St.) stands. With one of the largest Buddha statues on the East Coast, the brightly colored temple -- built in a former theater -- is hard to miss. Venture upstairs from the main hall to end your trip at the gift shop, where co-founder James Ying's collection of Buddhist art is displayed.
E-mail: shih@northjersey.com
Copyright © 2007 North Jersey Media Group Inc.
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